Thanx for the advice, it's just so expensive to keep experimenting with. I can never get it hot enough to move without boiling it. I can get it just about to temperature, but then it just bubbles and I lose the whole thing DOH!
Originally Posted by $Y$TM
GA Yellow crayon. Just work it further out in the flame and use a nice gentle, bushy flame. Took me a while myself to get those crayon/cadmium colors to not boil. Still working on red though , seems to want a higher temp to get to a working consistence, but brings it closer to subliming temperatures... or at least that's what I keep telling myself.
Ya that's a tough one Rogue, keep at it. One day it will just click.
I guess now that I think of it I do use a little more O2 but I usually crank the outer dial on my GTT so the flame is broader and not sharp and focused, like the inner/top/blue knobs(?) control. So I guess that's what my definition of an oxidizing bushy flame Thanks for the advice Hashmasta!
Trying something different on the sherlock shaping. I'm getting the seams down better, I just need to get things a little straighter before attaching the bridge.
Ya I was thinking about that after I coated it. It will probably just be a piece in my glass graveyard. Thanks for the heads up though, no copper fumes for me!
Depends on how big of a power source you buy. I paid like $110 for a new Mastech 5amp/30v power supply on Ebay, conductive paint for $30 +shipping: brightner is optional, $10 battery acid from auto parts store, Copper Sulfate crystals from gardening center $20 and distilled water from grocery store for $5.
Here's one that I sold on Facebook. Measured 1.25". These are tricky to photograph! To the naked eye everything looks great but magnifying with a lens really shows every minor flaw, airbubble/scuz.
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